Healthy AdultNCT07414862
The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training
A study testing Traditional Hangboard Protocol and Extensor Tendon Isometric Training in people with Healthy Adult, run by April Henderson at 1 site in United States.
Trial summary
The purpose of this study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers… Read more about this study
- Who is it for?
- Ages 18 years and olderHealthy volunteers can take part
- Conditions the study is for
- Healthy Adult
- What is being tested?
- Traditional Hangboard Protocol and Extensor Tendon Isometric Training
- Could I receive a placebo?
- No, everyone receives an active treatment
- How many people
- 36 participants
- Where
- 1 siteUnited States
- Study dates
- 11 Nov 2025to 6 Aug 2026
- Phase
- Interventional
- Are there results?
- Not yet: the study is under way
Key requirements
Who can take part, as listed by the sponsor. Only the study team can confirm whether you are eligible, so take this list to your doctor.
- Ages 18 years and older
- All sexes
- Healthy volunteers accepted
- Adult, Older adult
Who may be able to join
- Adults aged 18 years or older
- Recreational to advanced rock climbers as defined by the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) scale
- Climbing experience of at least 1-2 sessions per week for the past 6 months OR a minimum of 2 years of climbing experience
- Ability to commit to two 45-minute training sessions per week for 6 weeks
- Access to a hangboard or fingerboard and appropriate loading equipment
- Ability to provide informed consent
- Willingness to refrain from climbing the day prior to testing sessions
Who cannot join
- Upper extremity injury (hand, wrist, elbow, or shoulder) within the past 6 months
- Participation in a structured or organized hangboard training protocol within the past 4 months
- Climbing less than 1-2 times per week during the past 6 months and less than 2 total years of climbing experience
- Age under 18 years
- Inability to safely perform maximal isometric finger flexion or extension testing
- Inability or unwillingness to comply with the study protocol
Trial locations and contacts
1 site in 1 country.
About this study
Official title: The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training: A Randomized Control Trial
The purpose of this study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.
Read the detailed description
Hand, forearm strength, and endurance are highly important elements in elite climbers. Constant training is essential, e.g. eccentric-concentric training of finger flexors. Climbers have traditionally trained finger flexor strength for climbing performance, however to our knowledge, no formal protocol exists for training extensor tendons. In a study performed by Devise, finger flexor to extensor strength ratios were found to be 3:1 in non-climbers. In experienced or elite climbers however, the average ratio was 6:1 and as high as 9:1. Upper extremity injuries are most common in rock climbers, with finger injuries being most prevalent. Pulley injuries, consisting of rupture of the A2 or A4 annular pulleys are the most common type of injury. Other finger injuries include tenosynovitis of the flexor tendons, as well as lumbrical muscle tears. The coordinated action of flexor and extensor tendons allows for a wide range of hand movements, including grasping, gripping, and releasing objects, as well as intricate finger movements. The pulleys along the tendons (annular and cruciate) act as fulcrums, increasing the mechanical advantage of the tendons and allowing for efficient flexion. Damage to either flexor or extensor tendons can lead to significant loss of hand function. The purpose of our study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.
- Conditions
- Healthy Adult
- Being tested
- Traditional Hangboard Protocol, Extensor Tendon Isometric Training
What participants receive
What participants receive. In a randomised study each person is assigned to one group by chance.
Traditional Hangboard ProtocolOther
A structured finger flexor strength training protocol performed on a climbing hangboard at 70% of maximal finger flexion strength. Training consists of 5 seconds of isometric loading followed by 5 seconds of rest for 6 repetitions per set, across 6 sets with 3 minutes rest between sets. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks following a standardized upper extremity warm-up.
Extensor Tendon Isometric TrainingOther
A structured finger extensor tendon training protocol performed at 70% of maximal finger extension strength using isometric loading. This intervention will be in addition to performing the Finger Flexor Protocol. Training consists of 30-second isometric contractions with 3 minutes of rest between sets for a total of 6 sets per hand. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks and is completed during rest periods of the finger flexor training protocol
| Study group | Role | What they receive |
|---|---|---|
| Maximum Flexor Strength (MFS) | Experimental | Participants assigned to the Maximum Flexor Strength (MFS) group will perform a traditional finger flexor hangboard training protocol twice weekly for six weeks. Training is performed at 70% of maximal finger flexion strength using a standardized work-to-rest ratio. Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-intervention testing of grip strength, finger flexion strength, finger extension strength, finger endurance, and self-reported upper extremity function Receives: Other: Traditional Hangboard Protocol |
| Maximum Extensor Strength (MES) | Experimental | Participants assigned to the Maximum Extensor Strength (MES) group will perform a traditional finger flexor hangboard training protocol combined with a structured finger extensor training protocol twice weekly for six weeks. Extensor training is performed at 70% of maximal finger extension strength using isometric loading, and will . Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-intervention testing of grip strength, finger flexion strength, finger extension strength, finger endurance, and self-reported upper extremity function. Receives: Other: Traditional Hangboard Protocol; Other: Extensor Tendon Isometric Training |
| Control | No intervention | Participants assigned to the control group will continue their usual climbing activities without participation in a structured finger training intervention. Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-testing identical to the intervention groups. |
What is being measured
The primary outcome is the main question the study is designed to answer.
Maximal Finger Extension Strength (MES)
Maximum isometric finger extension force for digits 2-5 measured using a VALD strain gauge system with finger loops positioned over the middle phalanx. Three 5-second trials per hand with 20 seconds rest; best of three recorded for each hand.
Measured: Baseline (pre-training), 3 weeks, and 7 weeks (post-training)
Maximal Finger Flexion Strength (MFS) on Hangboard
Maximal added load (or total load) for a 7-second hang on a 30 mm hangboard edge using a standardized half/open crimp position. Load increased until participant cannot maintain the full 7 seconds; maximal successful load recorded.
Measured: Baseline (pre-training), 3 weeks, and 7 weeks (post-training)
Finger Stamina and Endurance /Time Under Tension (TUT) at 80% of MFS
Stamina assessed as total time under tension while maintaining 80% of calculated maximal finger flexion strength using a Tindeq device and a 20 mm fingerblock. Endurance will be measured by calculating critical force at the completion of the test. Participants alternate 7-second work and 3-second rest cycles while attempting to maintain 80% target force for as many repetitions as possible to calculate stamina (up to 24 cycles). Critical Force will be calculated for each hand at completion of 24 cycles to measure endurance.
Measured: Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks
Secondary outcomes (2)
Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder and Hand (DASH) Score
Self-reported upper extremity disability and symptoms using the Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder and Hand (DASH) questionnaire, a 30-item validated instrument. Each item is scored from 1 (no difficulty/no symptoms) to 5 (unable to perform activity/severe symptoms). The final score is calculated using the standardized formula and converted to a scale ranging from 0 to 100, where:
0 = no disability
100 = most severe disability
Higher scores indicate worse upper extremity function.
Measured: Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks
Finger Flexion-to-Extension Strength Ratio
Ratio calculated from maximal finger flexion strength (hangboard test) divided by maximal finger extension strength (VALD test), calculated for each hand.
Measured: Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks
Timeline
From the start of the study to its completion; the mark is today. Estimated dates are the sponsor’s plan.
- First posted17 Feb 2026
- Study start11 Nov 2025
- Primary completion4 Aug 2026 (estimated)
- Study completion6 Aug 2026 (estimated)
Resources
- Official record on ClinicalTrials.govThe registry entry this page is built from, with its full change history.
- Publications (12)Papers the sponsor has linked to this study.
- Other trials for Healthy AdultStudies of the same condition, open and under way.
- What the trial phases meanHow a treatment moves from first tests in people to approval.
More details
For doctors and researchers: how the study is designed, who runs it, and its registry IDs.
Study design
- Study type
- Interventional
- Phase
- Phase N/A
- Primary purpose
- Other
- Allocation
- Randomised
- Intervention model
- Parallel groups
- Model description
- This is a three-arm, parallel-group randomized controlled trial with repeated measures. Participants are randomly assigned to one of three groups: traditional finger flexor training, combined finger flexor and extensor training, or a control group continuing regular climbing without intervention. Outcomes are assessed at baseline, mid-intervention (3 weeks), and post-intervention (7 weeks)
- Masking
- None (open label)
- Enrolment
- 36 participants (estimated)
Sponsor and investigators
- Lead sponsor
- April Henderson
- Sponsor type
- University, hospital or other
- Responsible party
- Sponsor-investigator, April Henderson, Hardin-Simmons University
- Investigators
- Chuck Ruot, PhD, Principal investigator, Hardin-Simmons UniversityCordelia M Mangia Jansson, MSc, Principal investigator, KTH Royal Institute of Technology
IDs, dates and publications
- ClinicalTrials.gov ID
- NCT07414862
- Sponsor's protocol ID
- 202532
- Status last verified
- Jun 2026
- First submitted
- 11 Feb 2026
- Last updated
- 15 Jun 2026
- Results posted
- No
- Data monitoring committee
- No
- FDA-regulated drug
- No
- FDA-regulated device
- No
- Individual data sharing
- No: Individual participant data (IPD) will not be shared. All data are coded by participant number and stored on a secure, password-protected computer accessible only to the research team. Due to the small sample size and the potential for re-identification based on detailed performance and training data, IPD sharing is not planned. Only aggregate, de-identified results will be reported in publications and presentations.
Publications
Gilmore NK, Klimek P, Abrahamsson E, Baar K. Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers. Sports Med Open. 2024 Nov 19;10(1):125. doi: 10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7.
PubMed 39560837Valenzuela M, Launico MV, Varacallo MA. Anatomy, Shoulder and Upper Limb, Hand Lumbrical Muscles. 2023 Nov 17. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2026 Jan-. Available from http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK534876/
PubMed 30521297Colzani G, Tos P, Battiston B, Merolla G, Porcellini G, Artiaco S. Traumatic Extensor Tendon Injuries to the Hand: Clinical Anatomy, Biomechanics, and Surgical Procedure Review. J Hand Microsurg. 2016 Apr;8(1):2-12. doi: 10.1055/s-0036-1572534.
PubMed 27616821Johnson MA, Polgar J, Weightman D, Appleton D. Data on the distribution of fibre types in thirty-six human muscles. An autopsy study. J Neurol Sci. 1973 Jan;18(1):111-29. doi: 10.1016/0022-510x(73)90023-3. No abstract available.
PubMed 4120482Salonikidis K, Amiridis IG, Oxyzoglou N, Giagazoglou P, Akrivopoulou G. Wrist flexors are steadier than extensors. Int J Sports Med. 2011 Oct;32(10):754-60. doi: 10.1055/s-0031-1280777. Epub 2011 Sep 12.
PubMed 21913160Hagg GM, Milerad E. Forearm extensor and flexor muscle exertion during simulated gripping work -- an electromyographic study. Clin Biomech (Bristol). 1997 Jan;12(1):39-43. doi: 10.1016/s0268-0033(96)00049-6.
PubMed 11415670Lum D, Barbosa TM. Brief Review: Effects of Isometric Strength Training on Strength and Dynamic Performance. Int J Sports Med. 2019 May;40(6):363-375. doi: 10.1055/a-0863-4539. Epub 2019 Apr 3.
PubMed 30943568Vigouroux L, Quaine F, Labarre-Vila A, Moutet F. Estimation of finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during specific sport-climbing grip techniques. J Biomech. 2006;39(14):2583-92. doi: 10.1016/j.jbiomech.2005.08.027. Epub 2005 Oct 12.
PubMed 16225880Leung J. A Guide to Indoor Rock Climbing Injuries. Curr Sports Med Rep. 2023 Feb 1;22(2):55-60. doi: 10.1249/JSR.0000000000001036.
PubMed 36757124Philippe M, Wegst D, Muller T, Raschner C, Burtscher M. Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers. Eur J Appl Physiol. 2012 Aug;112(8):2839-47. doi: 10.1007/s00421-011-2260-1. Epub 2011 Dec 1.
PubMed 22131087Saul D, Steinmetz G, Lehmann W, Schilling AF. Determinants for success in climbing: A systematic review. J Exerc Sci Fit. 2019 Jul;17(3):91-100. doi: 10.1016/j.jesf.2019.04.002. Epub 2019 May 3.
PubMed 31193395Devise M, Pasek L, Goislard De Monsabert B, Vigouroux L. Finger flexion to extension ratio in healthy climbers: a proposal for evaluation and rebalance. Front Sports Act Living. 2023 Nov 23;5:1243354. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2023.1243354. eCollection 2023.
PubMed 38077281
Study at a glance
From the registry record, last updated by the sponsor on 15 Jun 2026. Recruitment status is as the sponsor reported it: confirm with the study team.
- Official title
- The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training: A Randomized Control Trial
- ClinicalTrials.gov ID
- NCT07414862
- Acronym / sponsor ID
- 202532
- Conditions
- Healthy Adult
- Study type
- Interventional
- Recruitment status
- Active, not recruiting
- Enrolment
- 36 participants (estimated)
- Lead sponsor
- April HendersonUniversity, hospital or other
- Study start
- 11 Nov 2025 (actual)
- Primary completion
- 4 Aug 2026 (estimated)
- Study completion
- 6 Aug 2026 (estimated)
- First posted
- 17 Feb 2026 (actual)
- Results
- Not posted in the source record
Clinical summary
The research question as the sponsor registered it. This describes what the study plans to test, not what it found.
The purpose of this study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.
Detailed description
Hand, forearm strength, and endurance are highly important elements in elite climbers. Constant training is essential, e.g. eccentric-concentric training of finger flexors. Climbers have traditionally trained finger flexor strength for climbing performance, however to our knowledge, no formal protocol exists for training extensor tendons. In a study performed by Devise, finger flexor to extensor strength ratios were found to be 3:1 in non-climbers. In experienced or elite climbers however, the average ratio was 6:1 and as high as 9:1. Upper extremity injuries are most common in rock climbers, with finger injuries being most prevalent. Pulley injuries, consisting of rupture of the A2 or A4 annular pulleys are the most common type of injury. Other finger injuries include tenosynovitis of the flexor tendons, as well as lumbrical muscle tears. The coordinated action of flexor and extensor tendons allows for a wide range of hand movements, including grasping, gripping, and releasing objects, as well as intricate finger movements. The pulleys along the tendons (annular and cruciate) act as fulcrums, increasing the mechanical advantage of the tendons and allowing for efficient flexion. Damage to either flexor or extensor tendons can lead to significant loss of hand function. The purpose of our study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.
Study design
- Primary purpose
- Other
- Allocation
- Randomised
- Intervention model
- Parallel groups
- Masking
- None (open label)
- Number of arms
- 3
- Model description
- This is a three-arm, parallel-group randomized controlled trial with repeated measures. Participants are randomly assigned to one of three groups: traditional finger flexor training, combined finger flexor and extensor training, or a control group continuing regular climbing without intervention. Outcomes are assessed at baseline, mid-intervention (3 weeks), and post-intervention (7 weeks)
| Arm | Type | Receives |
|---|---|---|
| Maximum Flexor Strength (MFS) | Experimental | Other: Traditional Hangboard ProtocolParticipants assigned to the Maximum Flexor Strength (MFS) group will perform a traditional finger flexor hangboard training protocol twice weekly for six weeks. Training is performed at 70% of maximal finger flexion strength using a standardized work-to-rest ratio. Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-intervention testing of grip strength, finger flexion strength, finger extension strength, finger endurance, and self-reported upper extremity function |
| Maximum Extensor Strength (MES) | Experimental | Other: Traditional Hangboard Protocol, Other: Extensor Tendon Isometric TrainingParticipants assigned to the Maximum Extensor Strength (MES) group will perform a traditional finger flexor hangboard training protocol combined with a structured finger extensor training protocol twice weekly for six weeks. Extensor training is performed at 70% of maximal finger extension strength using isometric loading, and will . Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-intervention testing of grip strength, finger flexion strength, finger extension strength, finger endurance, and self-reported upper extremity function. |
| Control | No intervention | –Participants assigned to the control group will continue their usual climbing activities without participation in a structured finger training intervention. Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-testing identical to the intervention groups. |
Who may qualify
- Ages
- 18 years and older
- Sex
- All
- Healthy volunteers
- Accepted
- Age groups
- Adult, Older adult
Key inclusion criteria (7 listed)
- Adults aged 18 years or older
- Recreational to advanced rock climbers as defined by the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) scale
- Climbing experience of at least 1-2 sessions per week for the past 6 months OR a minimum of 2 years of climbing experience
- Ability to commit to two 45-minute training sessions per week for 6 weeks
- Access to a hangboard or fingerboard and appropriate loading equipment
Key exclusion criteria (6 listed)
- Upper extremity injury (hand, wrist, elbow, or shoulder) within the past 6 months
- Participation in a structured or organized hangboard training protocol within the past 4 months
- Climbing less than 1-2 times per week during the past 6 months and less than 2 total years of climbing experience
- Age under 18 years
- Inability to safely perform maximal isometric finger flexion or extension testing
Eligibility is decided by the study team after screening; this overview does not establish that a patient qualifies. Full inclusion and exclusion criteria.
Interventions
| Intervention | Type | Arms |
|---|---|---|
| Traditional Hangboard ProtocolA structured finger flexor strength training protocol performed on a climbing hangboard at 70% of maximal finger flexion strength. Training consists of 5 seconds of isometric loading followed by 5 seconds of rest for 6 repetitions per set, across 6 sets with 3 minutes rest between sets. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks following a standardized upper extremity warm-up. | Other | Maximum Extensor Strength (MES), Maximum Flexor Strength (MFS) |
| Extensor Tendon Isometric TrainingA structured finger extensor tendon training protocol performed at 70% of maximal finger extension strength using isometric loading. This intervention will be in addition to performing the Finger Flexor Protocol. Training consists of 30-second isometric contractions with 3 minutes of rest between sets for a total of 6 sets per hand. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks and is completed during rest periods of the finger flexor training protocol | Other | Maximum Extensor Strength (MES) |
Primary outcome
Maximal Finger Extension Strength (MES)
Time frame: Baseline (pre-training), 3 weeks, and 7 weeks (post-training)
Maximum isometric finger extension force for digits 2-5 measured using a VALD strain gauge system with finger loops positioned over the middle phalanx. Three 5-second trials per hand with 20 seconds rest; best of three recorded for each hand.
Maximal Finger Flexion Strength (MFS) on Hangboard
Time frame: Baseline (pre-training), 3 weeks, and 7 weeks (post-training)
Maximal added load (or total load) for a 7-second hang on a 30 mm hangboard edge using a standardized half/open crimp position. Load increased until participant cannot maintain the full 7 seconds; maximal successful load recorded.
Finger Stamina and Endurance /Time Under Tension (TUT) at 80% of MFS
Time frame: Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks
Stamina assessed as total time under tension while maintaining 80% of calculated maximal finger flexion strength using a Tindeq device and a 20 mm fingerblock. Endurance will be measured by calculating critical force at the completion of the test. Participants alternate 7-second work and 3-second rest cycles while attempting to maintain 80% target force for as many repetitions as possible to calculate stamina (up to 24 cycles). Critical Force will be calculated for each hand at completion of 24 cycles to measure endurance.
2 secondary outcomes
Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder and Hand (DASH) Score
Time frame: Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks
Finger Flexion-to-Extension Strength Ratio
Time frame: Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks
Results and safety
This study is still under way. Results are not available in the source record yet.
Research links
- Official record on ClinicalTrials.govLast updated by the sponsor 15 Jun 2026.
- Background: PubMed 39560837Gilmore NK, Klimek P, Abrahamsson E, Baar K. Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers. Sports Med Open. 2024 Nov 19;10(1):125. doi: 10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7.
- Background: PubMed 30521297Valenzuela M, Launico MV, Varacallo MA. Anatomy, Shoulder and Upper Limb, Hand Lumbrical Muscles. 2023 Nov 17. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2026 Jan-. Available from http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK534876/
- Background: PubMed 27616821Colzani G, Tos P, Battiston B, Merolla G, Porcellini G, Artiaco S. Traumatic Extensor Tendon Injuries to the Hand: Clinical Anatomy, Biomechanics, and Surgical Procedure Review. J Hand Microsurg. 2016 Apr;8(1):2-12. doi: 10.1055/s-0036-1572534.
- Background: PubMed 4120482Johnson MA, Polgar J, Weightman D, Appleton D. Data on the distribution of fibre types in thirty-six human muscles. An autopsy study. J Neurol Sci. 1973 Jan;18(1):111-29. doi: 10.1016/0022-510x(73)90023-3. No abstract available.
- Background: PubMed 21913160Salonikidis K, Amiridis IG, Oxyzoglou N, Giagazoglou P, Akrivopoulou G. Wrist flexors are steadier than extensors. Int J Sports Med. 2011 Oct;32(10):754-60. doi: 10.1055/s-0031-1280777. Epub 2011 Sep 12.
- Background: PubMed 11415670Hagg GM, Milerad E. Forearm extensor and flexor muscle exertion during simulated gripping work -- an electromyographic study. Clin Biomech (Bristol). 1997 Jan;12(1):39-43. doi: 10.1016/s0268-0033(96)00049-6.
- Background: PubMed 30943568Lum D, Barbosa TM. Brief Review: Effects of Isometric Strength Training on Strength and Dynamic Performance. Int J Sports Med. 2019 May;40(6):363-375. doi: 10.1055/a-0863-4539. Epub 2019 Apr 3.
- Background: PubMed 16225880Vigouroux L, Quaine F, Labarre-Vila A, Moutet F. Estimation of finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during specific sport-climbing grip techniques. J Biomech. 2006;39(14):2583-92. doi: 10.1016/j.jbiomech.2005.08.027. Epub 2005 Oct 12.
- Background: PubMed 36757124Leung J. A Guide to Indoor Rock Climbing Injuries. Curr Sports Med Rep. 2023 Feb 1;22(2):55-60. doi: 10.1249/JSR.0000000000001036.
- Background: PubMed 22131087Philippe M, Wegst D, Muller T, Raschner C, Burtscher M. Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers. Eur J Appl Physiol. 2012 Aug;112(8):2839-47. doi: 10.1007/s00421-011-2260-1. Epub 2011 Dec 1.
- Background: PubMed 31193395Saul D, Steinmetz G, Lehmann W, Schilling AF. Determinants for success in climbing: A systematic review. J Exerc Sci Fit. 2019 Jul;17(3):91-100. doi: 10.1016/j.jesf.2019.04.002. Epub 2019 May 3.
- Background: PubMed 38077281Devise M, Pasek L, Goislard De Monsabert B, Vigouroux L. Finger flexion to extension ratio in healthy climbers: a proposal for evaluation and rebalance. Front Sports Act Living. 2023 Nov 23;5:1243354. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2023.1243354. eCollection 2023.
- Critical Force CalculationsLink provided by the sponsor.
- No Hangs Protocol Warm up RoutineLink provided by the sponsor.
- Individual participant dataSharing planned: No. Individual participant data (IPD) will not be shared. All data are coded by participant number and stored on a secure, password-protected computer accessible only to the research team. Due to the small sample size and the potential for re-identification based on detailed performance and training data, IPD sharing is not planned. Only aggregate, de-identified results will be reported in publications and presentations.
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Referral and contact
AzTrials does not enrol participants or take referrals. Contact the study team or a site listed below; they decide who can take part. This study is not recruiting at the moment.
Chuck Ruot, PhD principal investigator
Hardin-Simmons University
Cordelia M Mangia Jansson, MSc principal investigator
KTH Royal Institute of Technology
1 site in 1 country: see every site and its status.
Questions about this trial
What is this clinical trial studying?
A study testing Traditional Hangboard Protocol and Extensor Tendon Isometric Training in people with Healthy Adult, run by April Henderson at 1 site in United States.
The full registered description is in the About this study section and the official record.
Who may be eligible to take part?
The sponsor lists 7 inclusion and 6 exclusion criteria. Eligibility is decided by the study team after screening, so read the full criteria and contact a listed site.
Is this clinical trial currently recruiting?
The record says: under way, not looking for participants, as of the sponsor's last update on 15 Jun 2026. Status can change between updates, so confirm with the study contact before making plans.
Where is the study taking place?
The record lists 1 site in United States. Whether a site is taking part right now should be confirmed with that site. See every site.
What are the possible benefits and risks?
They depend on the study and the treatment, and no study can promise a benefit. The study team explains the known risks during informed consent, before anyone joins; the record itself does not list them.
Are results available for this study?
This study is still under way. Results are not available in the source record yet.
How can a doctor refer a patient or contact the research team?
The record lists no contact. The official record names the sponsor, who can be asked directly. AzTrials does not enrol participants or take referrals.
What does the primary outcome measure?
Maximal Finger Extension Strength (MES) (time frame: Baseline (pre-training), 3 weeks, and 7 weeks (post-training)). The study lists 3 primary outcomes in all. It is what the study was designed to measure, not a finding.
Where can I read the original study information?
On the ClinicalTrials.gov record for NCT07414862, which also lists 12 linked publications.
Does a listing mean the treatment is approved or proven to work?
No. A listing means the study is registered. It does not show that the treatment is safe, works, or is approved by a regulator.
How often is this information updated?
AzTrials copies changed records from ClinicalTrials.gov every night and reloads the whole registry every week. The sponsor last updated this record on 15 Jun 2026.